Luxury bed and breakfast serving fine food and lodging on Cape Cod.
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A La Cape Bistro offers rustic meals in renovated church By TERRY WARD LIBBY December 05, 2008 6:00 AM The Belfry Bistro is part of the larger Belfry Inne, a group of three historic structures in the heart of Sandwich Village, each one renovated under the direction of owner Christopher Wilson. The most imposing of these is The Abbey, a Catholic church built in 1900, which today houses the bistro on its main floor and six guest suites on the second floor. The bistro's "ecclesiastical" ambience, says Wilson, has been a "barrier" for some diners, who have viewed the restaurant as a formal, "special-occasion only" destination. In recent months, he has been working hard to change that perception. Once open only for dinner, the bistro now offers breakfast, lunch and dinner, at prices comparable to its local competition. Servers are encouraged to be friendly and informal, food is now served at the cocktail bar, and a bargain-priced, early-dinner menu has been introduced. The changes, says Wilson, are intended to switch the bistro's "fine-dining" image to a drop-in, casual one. Also new to the bistro is head chef Daniel Kenney, whose career commenced with a degree from Johnson and Wales culinary university and has since taken him to posts at such top-rated establishments as The Boston Harbor Hotel and The Willard Intercontinental, in Washington, D.C. Kenney is a strong proponent of using fresh, local foods and stocks his pantry with things such as Barnstable-raised lamb, produce from Crow Farm, and seafood straight off the fishing boats in Sandwich marina. The results do Sandwich proud. His food is creative and sophisticated, but his technique never interferes with the pure, natural goodness of these ingredients. Kenney's version of lobster chowder was brought to the table in a gravy boat, then poured into a bowl over crisply fried oysters and a little mound of roasted root vegetables. The soup itself was a smooth puree, while the vegetables added bite, and the oysters released their briny juices into the bowl. It was a delicious combination of flavors and textures, presented in a way that required you to pay attention. The same strategy, equally good, was used with a sugar pumpkin bisque, served with a sliver of pan-seared Hudson Valley foie gras. A simple salad of organic greens, super fresh, with a subtle vinaigrette, was served over a lovely arrangement of ribbons of English cucumber. Of all the starters sampled, the best was a spinach salad dressed with sherry vinegar, bacon and sweetly caramelized shallots, topped with fried "croutons" of local calamari. Our server said that more than one diner had deemed it the best salad they had ever had, and I found that easy to believe. An entr?e of free-range chicken was seasoned in a brine made with Crow Farm honey. It was incredibly moist and served in a generous pool of rich brown jus. The accompanying sides included mashed potatoes whipped with local goat cheese, and grilled slices of Crow Farm's Delicato squash. Kenney stuffs his filet mignon with a pocket of flavorful, slow-cooked Angus beef short ribs. It is served with a creative take on French fries ? perfectly carved rectangles of potato cooked in pure duck fat until succulent and golden. His chef's-special preparation of Barnstable lamb included three cuts ? rack, leg and loin ? all deliciously braised with fresh herbs and served with roasted seasonal vegetables. An entr?e of seared duck breast was brushed with sweet beach plum glaze. Ours was served blood rare, probably on the cusp of too rare for most tastes, but we tried it Kenney's way and enjoyed it. It was accompanied by a "hash" of local root vegetables, combined with minced bits of foie gras and cooked, again, in duck fat. It is Kenney's use of such lavish ingredients to enhance the flavors of just-harvested local foods that makes for meals that taste luxurious and, at the same time, appealingly rustic. True, the cocktail bar was built from pews, and the wine cellar was once a confessional, but no one need be reluctant about wining and dining in this lovely old church. It is a romantic and beautiful establishment, made even more inviting by its casual new attitude and Chef Kenney's delightful and earthy new menu.
Location
Sandwich Village...Cape Cods oldest, was incorporated in 1639 by adventurous settlers and named for the english seacoast town it evokes. History is palpable- The 17th century hoxie house, Cape Cods oldest home, the still-functioning Dexter Grist Mill, The Christopher Wren Church. The legacy of the past endures in the Sandwhich Glass Museum, Heritage Plantation, The Thornton Burgess Museum and Yesteryears Doll Museum.
Amenities
Free Local Telephone Calls, Meal Plan - American, Elevators, No Smoking Rooms/Facilities, Toilet, Fire Place, Jacuzzi, AM/FM Alarm Clock, Television with Cable, Heated Guest Rooms, High Speed Internet, Business Center, Outdoor Parking, Air Conditioned, Restaurant, 24 Hour Security, Concierge Desk, Ironing Board, Hairdryer in Room, Terrace
Features
cafe, entrance hall/lobby, car park, garden or park, terrace, hotel bar, conference/meeting rooms, massage, non-smoking rooms, restaurant, balcony/terrace, reading room, bathroom with shower, ironing board, television, hairdryer, central heating, air conditioning, radio, telephone, cable tv, w-lan in the rooms
Additional Info
Bar Dining, Bar/Lounge, Cafe, Chef's Table, Entertainment, Fireplace, Full Bar, Happy Hour, Non-Smoking Restaurant, Patio/Outdoor Dining, Private Room, Weekend Brunch, Wheelchair Access, Wine, Wine Bar
Amenity In Room
Air conditioning, Alarm clock, Ceiling fans, Coffee/Tea facilities, Data port, Fireplace, Hairdryer, Hot tub/whirlpool tub, Ironing Board, Radio, Satellite/Cable TV, Telephone, TV, Wi-Fi
Complimentary breakfast, Internet access in public areas - complimentary, Internet access - wireless, Laundry facilities, Parking (free), Spa services on site, Wedding services
Restaurant Features
Children's Menu, Live Entertainment, Online Menu, Online Reservations, Patio, Private Room Available, Romantic Spot, Takeout Available, Working Fireplace
Rooms
(all rooms include) Individually decorated, Internet access (complimentary), Non-smoking only, Phone, Private bathroom, Television, Wireless Internet access
Payment Accepted
Check, Traveler's Check, American Express, Cash, MasterCard, Visa, Traveler's Check, American Express, Cash, MasterCard, Visa
Activity
Bicycle riding trails, Boating, Fishing, Golfing, Hiking trails, Fitness Center / Gym, Health Spa / Massage
Dining
Belfry Inn has a restaurant serving breakfast, lunch, and dinner. Guests are offered a complimentary breakfast.
Attraction
Art Galleries, Beach, Gourmet/Fine Dining, Museum, Nature area
General
Number of rooms: 20;, Restaurant(s) in hotel;, Smoke-free property
Credit Cards Accepted
American Express, Visa, MasterCard, Discover, Diner's Club
Prices
Summer $165-$310 double. Rates include full breakfast
